25/10/2025 General News
When we talk of watch collectors, nowadays we tend to think of people who are drawn to wristwatches, writes Sam Hicks. But the wristwatch has only been in existence for just over a century; however, the history of the watch goes several centuries earlier.
For four hundred years before the emergence of the modern wristwatch in the early part of the 20th century, the word ‘watch’ meant one thing: a pocket watch. In the 16th century, the ability to take the time with you everywhere was revolutionary. It was also hugely important for seafarers, making navigation much more accurate.
Although the very first watches were designed to be worn on a pendant around the neck, the pocket watch as we understand the term today dates from the 17th century, and its popularity was much enhanced by the emergence of the waistcoat during the reign of Charles II. Because early watches were wound by a key they were vulnerable to ingress of everyday dirt, so the ability to keep them safe and clean in a waistcoat pocket was the obvious solution.
Over time, improvements in technology (especially as the crown wound mechanism became a standard feature in the late 1800s) as well as advances in manufacturing made pocket watches both more accurate and more accessible – previously they had been the exclusive preserve of the highest (and richest) levels of society.
With the advent of the railways, accurate timekeeping became a necessity, and ‘railroad watches’, less ornate and more functional, started to appear. These were manufactured to strict standards and had the reputation of being reliable and precise.
The introduction of wristwatches in the early years of the 20th century – and their rapid development due to the military demands during the First World War - saw the precipitous decline of the pocket watch, although there was still a residual demand for them right up until the 1970s. So why is there so much interest in collecting them today?
The main answer is that pocket watches offer a winning combination of art, design and engineering. Each one is a miniature technical marvel, crafted with precision and care, at the same time being a work of art with both the mechanism and the case offering an aesthetic treat. They also offer a connection to the past; many such watches have been passed down through generations.
Another factor which has contributed to the increasing interest in pocket watches in recent years is their appearance on television programmes. From Downton Abbey to Peaky Blinders, viewers have seen the pocket watch as an important part of the costume, and every day new TV dramas such as House of Guiness and The Forsytes also showcase the pocket watch. And as ever, when fashion favours the waistcoat, the popularity of the pocket watch is never far behind.
For those looking to start a collection, there is plenty of variety. The most obvious variations are materials, which range from 18ct gold through silver to more prosaic base metals; and styles. Open face watches have no cover protecting the glass; hunter watches have a metal lid which needs to be opened to see the face; whilst half hunters have a hole in the case lid enabling brief glimpses of the time without fully opening the watch.
In a world increasingly dominated by soulless digital devices, pocket watches stand as a reminder of an age when craftsmanship, mechanical ingenuity and timeless design were to the fore. For those who fall in love with these timeless treasures, a pocket watch is more than a timepiece; it is a historical work of art which fits neatly in the pam of your hand.